We all know about that little celebration down the river, but St. Louis celebrates Mardi Gras too. And we do it in grand style. No, it's not quite as big and ornate as New Orleans, but it's pretty big. In fact, St. Louis hosts the second largest Mardi Gras celebration in the nation.
It's held almost entirely in the Soulard neighborhood. The city of St. Louis is defined by named neighborhoods. Soulard (pronounced "sue-lard") ...hmmm, I should do a post about pronouncing things around there. I'll tuck that away for another day... Soulard is one of the oldest neighborhoods in town. It's the French section... it's our French quarter, filled with ancient houses (as much as houses can be ancient west of the Mississippi), houses that were built when this land was under French control, when Napoleon was Emperor. In five months we will celebrate Bastille Day in the same streets that are today decorated with purple and gold.
It started back in the 1980's as the Soulard neighborhood association thought to celebrate the history of their French neighborhood. It was small, like a block party. But it grew. A lot. Today people are warned about the street parties when they buy a house there. Many pack up and leave during Mardi Gras. Others invite in their friends and add to the party atmosphere. The association pays for ample port-a-johns to keep the crowds from pissing all over the yards. They also place large trash cans every few feet. The morning after requires a bulldozer to clear the streets of the trash. Tall fences define the backyards, not to keep the dogs in, but the partiers out.
I've only gone to Mardi Gras in Soulard 2 or 3 times. I never attended one of the many parades that mark the two weeks of Mardi Gras. St. Louis doesn't hold parades every day, just for the two weekends and actual Fat Tuesday. Kids aren't off school, well, at least the kids in public school. Kids attending one of the twenty bagillion Catholic schools in the area might be off, or not. I'm not Catholic and I didn't attend private school, but I think some are off on Fat Tuesday. My ass sat in class completely oblivious of the parades and drinking going on downtown.
But there are parades. Several. The one that gets the most attention is the Dog Parade which I think is coming up tomorrow. It is a parade of dogs and other pets. If you can leash it and "it" can give some semblance of playing nice, you can join the parade. If you can dress up your beast on a leash, even better. It's wildly popular.
Except for today's festivities, most everything is family friendly. I know there is a lot for families in NOLA, but for an out-of-towner that might be hard to maneuver. You can come here knowing that you can walk down the streets without topless women begging for beads. With the exception of today.
Today is the big parade. The one with floats and marching bands. This is the one that is accompanied by all day drinking and transforms a usually quiet and quaint neighborhood into a rollicking sewer of music, partying, large crowds and even more drinking.
And oh buddy, does St. Louis like to get its drink on! If you're not scared of crowds and enjoy a kickass party, this is the place to be. Soulard is filled with little restaurants and corner bars, places that look crowded with ten customers. For Mardi Gras they set up shop outside and open their patios so they can use the inside floor space as a stockroom. Larger facilities hire bands. As you stroll through the streets, bouncing off other revelers, you can listen to a variety of music ranging from blues to country to hard rock. People dress up - the crazier the better. The one outfit that stands out in my hazed memory was a guy with a viking helmet - the Nordic type, not football. I was mesmerized by it. But there's lots of face paint and beads. And lots of boobs.
The
weather doesn't matter. We've had some toasty days that really bring out the crowds, but the party continues despite how cold it is outside. Now rain? That puts a damper on things yet the party continues, just inside or under a canopy. Dress accordingly.
Cost - free admission. Several bars and private events will have a cover charge, but you stroll the streets for free. Alcohol is everywhere, but you cannot bring in your own. Food vendors are also everywhere. One will not dehydrate or starve to death at Mardi Gras. You might, however, die of liver failure.
Parking? Parking sucks. There are several lots that charge comparable to handing over your first born but there are free shuttles into Soulard. Good luck with that. St. Louis City PD are ticket crazed fiends so obey the signs and don't squeeze in on the corner like I tried one year (but it was worth paying the fine instead of lot fees - it was only 2 blocks away from the fun).
Security - FABULOUS. If you're under 21 NO DRINKY. That is very strongly enforced so behave and keep to soda pop. There is extra security hired just for the weekend, especially today. Many of the restaurants and bars will also have extra security. Keep it to the streets, don't stab anyone, don't drink if under 21 and don't pass out - you'll have a good time. Otherwise you might get your ass carted off - no fun.
Verdict: Great destination if wanting to celebrate Mardi Gras with the kids (except the Saturday before Fat Tuesday) and great destination if wanting to get your party on, adult style... er... like a college student on Spring Break style. Bring beer-proof winter coat as you're in the midwest in the middle of winter. Cold. Really cold. If it's not cold, leave the coat in the car. You won't break the bank coming either. Definitely a two thumbs up event.
